Down Yonder

last minute decisions usually pay off. I had the opportunity to drive down south for the B-day and took it. I was hearing rumors about the big southie that was supposed to hit. I missed the brunt of it but was still blessed with plenty overhead sets. Unfortunately, it was labor day weekend in Los Angeles which meant traffic delays and 12 gazillion surfers out! I managed to find a campsite for only 75 dollars a night! haha!

If it were only a left....

vultures

Got tubed on the 405

I dropped in on an old man (gotta do what you gotta do)

Leo

I've been hounding my old man for years to get out there and catch some waves with me. It finally panned out on his 53rd birthday. Headed on down to LC surf shop and grabbed a soft top and a suit. All the coastlines were wind battered but we found some protection and dinky waves. Nothin' better than seeing my old man catch waves!

Why didn't you think of this?

Shane Dorian is one of my favorite surfers, not to mention his epic film performance in "In God's Hands". The dude has now invented something brilliant.

POO

I got sick recently, one day after a surf session. So like all humans first thing is to figure out who or what to blame it on. I initially thought pasta salad or hamburgers from the BBQ but then realized i spent ample time in the ocean the day prior. There was no advisory at the time, but I'm sure that wouldn't disqualify somebody from getting ill after stowing their beer in the poo creek to keep it cold...

This is old news but all this shitting (i had an earache too) got me thinking again. As it turns out, we surfers ingest up to ten times more ocean water than "regular" users. Undoubtedly all these high waters are pushing more contaminants into our watersheds and into the ocean.

http://www.kval.com/sports/local/36662629.html

Gnar...

$200,000 Lifeguards with Million Dollar Pensions!

Oh damn i think i made the wrong career move...

Zen Like

Love your Dunes

oooh aahh hooo

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Coming down the hill on my scooter i got terrorized by a gnarly rain storm. It was like i was getting barreled all the way down the hill! Closed eyes, water dumping at about 35 mph pretty wicked! pulling off to catch my breath i found this beach.
a crazy boogie board beach. no surfing allowed (until 5?) but a nice body surfing session sufficed for me.




The swell forecast was about 25 ft up on the north shore so i couldnt miss watching the Kamikazes. There was a SUP contest at Sunset--reminded me of Oregon conditions.
I was worried when I saw this menehune trying to get in. Whos kid is that? Somebody stop him!








I ventured over to Pipe to assess the situation. Unfortunately i forgot my board (was in a hurry).





Waimea Bay was pumping





Waikiki - crowded..yet an exciting place to be for sure. Not a good place to drive a car around. Quite a pain in the ass actually--parking, traffic kills that one which basically limits the surf to walking breaks, but theres plenty reefs around. The early bird special yields a 2 hr board rental at 10 bucks.





Lolo getting an early start on the double fisting

Tidal Score - 5 mile wave

Always wanted to do something like this.

Oregon Surf