Diffraction

So the forecast is calling for 20 some odd ft this weekend which equates to chaos at any beach even remotely facing the swell. Now thanks to an amazing property of waves known as diffraction, surfers can enjoy waves of lesser energy at certain locations. There are a few spots work very rarely, but when they do, it equates to winning the lotto. I've scored a few of these locations but the stars really need to align to get it right. Get a map, study it and go explore. You might amazed at what you find, but you're more than likely to get skunked!

Finally -- Twas good

I actually made it out in the water this weekend and got some decent waves. I managed to surf the 9'8'' and the 6'8''. Things were good all day Saturday, and still clean this morning but quickly turned into garbage around 10 am. The future isn't looking too promising though because theres another system heading our way, which means big, gnarly, windy and rainy conditions. This weekend was the calm before (and after) the storm--a good lull. A little stoke my way.

Finally

Its been weeks since i've been out in the water. This weekend looks excellent so i'm not going to miss it. The forecast calls for 5 ft 11 seconds with minimal wind. I'm sure ill be able to find various sized peaks suitable for both my noserider and 6-something single fin. Hope it all pans out because im goin nuts here

The Rouse

It's that time of the year again. 10-15 NW swells accompanied by wind and rain. It is really the opposite of a lull, but to me it is a lull indeed. It has been over two weeks since i've seen the ocean. I check webcams and surf reports very frequently in order to satisfy my oceanic urges. It's really all I can do at this point. I'm not a big wave charger by any means. I've been in over my head quite a few times, literally and figuratively. So I opt for protection at this time of the year. There are quite a few of those--not so secret--secret spots. But in the mean time, I've got some reading to do. Just received my first issue of The Surfer's Journal. www.surfersjournal.com

Bye Bye Sunshine

Its that time of the year. Cold and crispy in the morning, school buses, more traffic and almost to the point where i have to warm my car up in the morning. The waves are also bigger. Strong NW systems are bashing the NW coastline which can be good or bad depending on how you look at it. I prefer smaller and cleaner waves from waist to head high. You know the feel, sun shining off the nicely shaped peelers. A slight offshore breeze keeping you cool. Spending a considerable amount of time on the nose, watching the water skim beneath your feet while you do it. Those were the days. Well, I shouldn't be so pessimistic. Fall has its bonuses, too. Bigger waves means less people in the line up and more waves. Shitty weather in general will do that. And there will still be those small days you just have to wait around and get to the right spot. For the most part I'll be busting out the 9'0 high performance longboard so stay the fuck out of my way (I'm only kidding. I'm always down for a party wave as long as you know where the hell you're going).