Boots

this blog has been hung up for a while... I was lucky enough to visit cabo san lucas over the winter to get some warm water surf in, but haven't had the time to contribute to this blog.

hoping I soon become fortunate enough to meet oregon surf again!

Cheers cold water surfers...

Down Yonder

last minute decisions usually pay off. I had the opportunity to drive down south for the B-day and took it. I was hearing rumors about the big southie that was supposed to hit. I missed the brunt of it but was still blessed with plenty overhead sets. Unfortunately, it was labor day weekend in Los Angeles which meant traffic delays and 12 gazillion surfers out! I managed to find a campsite for only 75 dollars a night! haha!

If it were only a left....

vultures

Got tubed on the 405

I dropped in on an old man (gotta do what you gotta do)

Leo

I've been hounding my old man for years to get out there and catch some waves with me. It finally panned out on his 53rd birthday. Headed on down to LC surf shop and grabbed a soft top and a suit. All the coastlines were wind battered but we found some protection and dinky waves. Nothin' better than seeing my old man catch waves!

Why didn't you think of this?

Shane Dorian is one of my favorite surfers, not to mention his epic film performance in "In God's Hands". The dude has now invented something brilliant.

POO

I got sick recently, one day after a surf session. So like all humans first thing is to figure out who or what to blame it on. I initially thought pasta salad or hamburgers from the BBQ but then realized i spent ample time in the ocean the day prior. There was no advisory at the time, but I'm sure that wouldn't disqualify somebody from getting ill after stowing their beer in the poo creek to keep it cold...

This is old news but all this shitting (i had an earache too) got me thinking again. As it turns out, we surfers ingest up to ten times more ocean water than "regular" users. Undoubtedly all these high waters are pushing more contaminants into our watersheds and into the ocean.

http://www.kval.com/sports/local/36662629.html

Gnar...