Tuesday, September 23, 2008

Good to be Home

One hell of a drive. 2500 miles RT. As I made my way into LA, I'll admit I was a little nervous. It was about noon but traffic didn't give a shit. Even the 18-wheelers were speeding down I-5 to get jammed onto the 405. It was a little hectic but I survived and made it to Malibu at last. Got set up at the campsite for a modest 56$ a night (whew!). I pitched my tent, caught a short and deserved snooze the headed for the break to meet with jerich. The damn water main busted and left me showerless on the checkout day when I needed it most. Shit, I couldnt even take a shit. Good thing it had an ocean view.

He told me leashes weren't allowed so I paddled out without one. With 5 to 6 boards per wave I was a little sketchy and didn't want to ding the GP. First wave, me dropping in on someone and someone dropping in on me. Making the section was likely so i tried backing out, but just as a did the board flew out from under my feet and took off towards the rocks. "oh shit I shoulda wore a leash". Anyway, a nice ol' asian fella snagged it for me and the wound was merely superficial. That same guy was later chastised by an aggressive dude saying he should have to pay for the ding his board sustained when the old asian dropped in on him. "Hey, i think you should give me twenty bucks or something, you know?" ha.

Jerich Himself

I figured five days in Malibu was enough so I'd head north because I had lots of coast to cover. I was wrong. North of Santa Barbara was shit and so it was the rest the way up to canada I assume. Sure, it was small, crowded, and polluted in Malibu but it was always clean and there were always waves to be had. Shoulda stayed.

Anyway, I surfed this at morro rock

I stayed in Morro Bay one night and decided to keep heading north. The only plus here was the 39 dollar motel 6. HBO, hot showers, fine linens...oooh oohh oohh. Beats the crap outta that mabilu campground.

Straight to Santa Cruz where it was windy and small once again. Hung out for a few days in San Fran and found no rideable surf.

Stinson was sharky (at least thats what the signs said) and shitty but had nice scenery otherwise.

Wednesday, September 10, 2008


Heading south in the Honda for a solo surf mission. Super stoked for warm water and good surf.

Tuesday, September 2, 2008