Friday, November 21, 2008
Monday, November 17, 2008
Had to dodge a few logs this weekend. Like a fool I told myself I could make the paddle out at what looked like a nice channel. I did, but only once. Getting back out the second time proved to be a little more challenging. But no worries, I found a nice rip out to an empty A-frame. It was a nice foggy morning. It's like a drug and I need more.
Monday, November 10, 2008
I'm looking forward to the day when the sun begins to stay out longer. Daylight savings time screws us from getting a surf in after work. It can be depressing. I guess there are "sick days" but other than that it's weekend madness. It doesn't seem like too long ago that I could work all day, get out there and float around watching the sun go down after 9pm.
4:36 pm??? WTF? Its dark when I wake up and dark when I get home.
I'll be celebrating the Solstice for sure!
Sunday, November 2, 2008
Its not easy to deal with the Valley Kook identity, but there is no choice. You can pretend and front all you want but the bottom line is...you're a valley. You can align yourself with local lines of thought and ideologies but you sell yourself out.
Deal with it. Live it. Embrace it. FUk'm all. Surf once a week, once a month, once a year but you can't lose your dignity.
Know your limits.
Feel good when you make it through the Icy pass to surf cold shitty conditions.