Wednesday, December 24, 2008

Magic 8-Ball

Is there surf in my future?


Happy Holidays anyway.

Monday, December 15, 2008

Friday, December 12, 2008


1642 Ft at David Douglas summit. Shit, I guess that means my economy car won't be making out to surf the 25 ft@10sec swell tomorrow.
Closed at the moment:

US26MP 25.5US26, 6 miles East of Elsie
Lanes Affected: (Westbound) Median , All Lanes , Shoulder (Eastbound) Median , All Lanes , ShoulderComments: Crash has closed the hwy. Expect delays.
Public Contact: ODOT/TMOC Portland
Phone: (800) 977-6368
Incident #: 65252
Last Updated: 12/12/2008 9:07 pm

US26MP 13.79

Weather Condition: Snow Flurries
Road Surface: Spots of
Current Chain Restrictions: Carry Chains or Traction Tires
Temp: 32 F
New Snow: 1 in.Roadside Snow: 1 in.
Last Updated: 12/12/2008
7:41 pm
US26 MP 9.72 - MP 35.11David Douglas (Elev. 1642') -
East of Necanicum Jct to Sand Shed near North Fork Wolf Creek Rd
Chain Restriction: Carry chains or traction tires regardless of conditions.

Monday, December 1, 2008

just lookin'

massive swell out there yesterday.  Just fun to watch...

Monday, November 24, 2008

Friday, November 21, 2008


There's a nice channel.  Nows your chance to make history.

Monday, November 17, 2008


Had to dodge a few logs this weekend. Like a fool I told myself I could make the paddle out at what looked like a nice channel. I did, but only once. Getting back out the second time proved to be a little more challenging. But no worries, I found a nice rip out to an empty A-frame. It was a nice foggy morning. It's like a drug and I need more.

Monday, November 10, 2008


I'm looking forward to the day when the sun begins to stay out longer. Daylight savings time screws us from getting a surf in after work. It can be depressing. I guess there are "sick days" but other than that it's weekend madness. It doesn't seem like too long ago that I could work all day, get out there and float around watching the sun go down after 9pm.

4:36 pm??? WTF? Its dark when I wake up and dark when I get home.

I'll be celebrating the Solstice for sure!

Sunday, November 2, 2008

Valley Kook

Its not easy to deal with the Valley Kook identity, but there is no choice. You can pretend and front all you want but the bottom line're a valley. You can align yourself with local lines of thought and ideologies but you sell yourself out.

Deal with it. Live it. Embrace it. FUk'm all. Surf once a week, once a month, once a year but you can't lose your dignity.
Be Respectful.
Know your limits.
Surf alone.
Feel good when you make it through the Icy pass to surf cold shitty conditions.

Monday, October 13, 2008

The 100 Dollar Longboard

Nothing better than a Craigslist garage sale score. It's a 9'4'' Ocean pulse. Classic noserider shape. Triple redwood stringer.

Thanks a lot Bill!

Sunday, October 5, 2008

There she blows....

Well I guess it's time to goodbye to moments like these:

And hello to the next 9 months of this:

Not to be pessimistic but it can get a little hairy for a while. Definitely looking forward to a few trips northward to find those special sheltered gems. Even if you get skunked you still have the opportunity to soak in the surroundings at the our most northwestern tip. I've only been a few times so there's a whole lot more to get acquainted with up there. ahhhh

gettin' all excited already

Tuesday, September 23, 2008

Good to be Home

One hell of a drive. 2500 miles RT. As I made my way into LA, I'll admit I was a little nervous. It was about noon but traffic didn't give a shit. Even the 18-wheelers were speeding down I-5 to get jammed onto the 405. It was a little hectic but I survived and made it to Malibu at last. Got set up at the campsite for a modest 56$ a night (whew!). I pitched my tent, caught a short and deserved snooze the headed for the break to meet with jerich. The damn water main busted and left me showerless on the checkout day when I needed it most. Shit, I couldnt even take a shit. Good thing it had an ocean view.

He told me leashes weren't allowed so I paddled out without one. With 5 to 6 boards per wave I was a little sketchy and didn't want to ding the GP. First wave, me dropping in on someone and someone dropping in on me. Making the section was likely so i tried backing out, but just as a did the board flew out from under my feet and took off towards the rocks. "oh shit I shoulda wore a leash". Anyway, a nice ol' asian fella snagged it for me and the wound was merely superficial. That same guy was later chastised by an aggressive dude saying he should have to pay for the ding his board sustained when the old asian dropped in on him. "Hey, i think you should give me twenty bucks or something, you know?" ha.

Jerich Himself

I figured five days in Malibu was enough so I'd head north because I had lots of coast to cover. I was wrong. North of Santa Barbara was shit and so it was the rest the way up to canada I assume. Sure, it was small, crowded, and polluted in Malibu but it was always clean and there were always waves to be had. Shoulda stayed.

Anyway, I surfed this at morro rock

I stayed in Morro Bay one night and decided to keep heading north. The only plus here was the 39 dollar motel 6. HBO, hot showers, fine linens...oooh oohh oohh. Beats the crap outta that mabilu campground.

Straight to Santa Cruz where it was windy and small once again. Hung out for a few days in San Fran and found no rideable surf.

Stinson was sharky (at least thats what the signs said) and shitty but had nice scenery otherwise.

Wednesday, September 10, 2008


Heading south in the Honda for a solo surf mission. Super stoked for warm water and good surf.

Tuesday, September 2, 2008

Sunday, August 24, 2008

Beachy Pt. 2

I encountered a small shark out in the water yesterday at a good open beach break. He was about 5-6 ft long and had a dorsal fin of about 10 inches (of course i could be exaggerating because thats what I do). Anyway, this guy was splashing around a little bit. Possibly feeding, but he could have been injured or sick now that I think about it. Some salmon sharks have been reported beached lately and possibly sick with a brain virus ( This is most likely the case. This thing easily capture my attention so I was missing set waves while trying to figure out what the hell it was. As soon as I saw the dorsal fin I got out in a smooth hurry.

I also picked up a new fujifilm camera which took the above 3 shots. So far so good.