Friday, August 31, 2007

Burrrr..I like it.

I managed to get in the water last night and damn was it cold, but there were only a few surfers so it was worth it. I'm willing to part with warmth if it means empty waves. A few weeks back surfers up and down the Oregon coast were trunking it in waist high waves. It felt like California, and looked like it too. It seems that the sport (if you call it that) has been growing exponentially around here, perhaps it's from various media coverage or good waves. I dont know anyone who enjoys surfing crowds, and in comparison to California, we have serene empty breaks. I recently took a surf trip southward and was fairly disgusted with the surf scene there. I mean, it wasn't too bad, but so different from Oregon and Washington that it helped me appreciate what we have here in the NW--empty breaks. And understandably, many want to keep it that way. (I stole the above photo, like many others. It's what I do. Get over it.)

Wednesday, August 22, 2007

A good day

I didnt check the forecast before i headed out last weekend. I basically expected shit surf so that I wasn't let down. Anyway, it was good. Real good. Well, not really good but pretty good. I was alone first of all. Its amazing surfing alone because there is such a multitude of waves and the greed just overtakes you, especially since the conditions were so great. Fast and glassy waist to shoulder high waves. One of those special days I wont forget.

Sunday, August 12, 2007


The surf was certainly smaller than I like. Friday evening yielded the greatest results with minimal winds, but Saturday was smaller and windier. Never before have I seen so many beginners out on shortboards. One guy even had just purchased a brand new gun! Good thing, because the swell was pumping! Oh well I should just lighten up, right? Besides, we were all at that stage once. I remember the first time I went surfing and asked the shop owner to rent me a shortboard, but he was honest enough to tell me that I really needed a longboard. Not only to suit me, but for the current conditions as well. I'm glad I took his word for it.

Friday, August 10, 2007


As of right now the coast looks awesome, but I'll see if it pans out tonight. Sure, it's a small swell but that's the way I like it. More spots to surf, no need for protection. Besides, there is miles of open beach in Oregon like the photo above. Hopefully I can get in the water before the N wind kicks in this evening. It always seems better in the morning, that is, before the wind gets on it. I might just awake tomorrow to some glass if things don't pan out this evening.

Tuesday, August 7, 2007

One More Kook

Another perspective
from another kook
You might enjoy it
but You might not.
I guess it depends on my mood which reflects my most recent surf session. Last Saturday was
rather ridiculous soo.....