Its not easy to deal with the Valley Kook identity, but there is no choice. You can pretend and front all you want but the bottom line is...you're a valley. You can align yourself with local lines of thought and ideologies but you sell yourself out.
Deal with it. Live it. Embrace it. FUk'm all. Surf once a week, once a month, once a year but you can't lose your dignity.
Be Respectful.
Know your limits.
Surf alone.
Feel good when you make it through the Icy pass to surf cold shitty conditions.
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