After the lack of scorage in mex i was jonesing bad for some surf. I did score muchas cervesas, beautiful sunsets, some bodysurfing/boogie barrels and salmonella, but for the most part it was FLAT. I did head north hoping to find more size at playa bruja but there was NONE accompanied with wind. But its good to be home...
i took an extra day off to get some in and made it top priority. The calm before the storm! It was cold, it was sunny and it was fabulous.
5 comments:
Nice little stretch of swell. Some of the sandbanks here and then need some grooming though....
Sorry for the mexi-skunk. Sucky.
its allll good, man. The heavy drinking, sunburning and bad food made up for it.
I'm just glad to be back. That salmonella did me in for though.
You dont get out much do you.
not nearly as much as i'd like to, especially during the colder months.
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