The surf was certainly smaller than I like. Friday evening yielded the greatest results with minimal winds, but Saturday was smaller and windier. Never before have I seen so many beginners out on shortboards. One guy even had just purchased a brand new gun! Good thing, because the swell was pumping! Oh well I should just lighten up, right? Besides, we were all at that stage once. I remember the first time I went surfing and asked the shop owner to rent me a shortboard, but he was honest enough to tell me that I really needed a longboard. Not only to suit me, but for the current conditions as well. I'm glad I took his word for it.
Sunday, August 12, 2007
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