Wednesday, August 22, 2007

A good day

I didnt check the forecast before i headed out last weekend. I basically expected shit surf so that I wasn't let down. Anyway, it was good. Real good. Well, not really good but pretty good. I was alone first of all. Its amazing surfing alone because there is such a multitude of waves and the greed just overtakes you, especially since the conditions were so great. Fast and glassy waist to shoulder high waves. One of those special days I wont forget.

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