Californian Dreamin'

It's been cold, rainy, icy or snowing around here lately. I really do enjoy this kind of weather but from time to time I can't help but to think about what life would be like in Southern California. The warm(er) water, sunny skies, manageable surf, bikinis, bonfires and a different surf culture. Of course this is just my imagination, I've never actually surfed there. I've only really spent a few days there once or twice before. Come late January though, I'll be spending a few days there and I'm hoping to soak up a little bit of the culture. Its hard to say whether I'll like it or not. Probably not, but i'm dreaming anyhow. Above: my GP's D-fin in a california sunset.

Duck...

I havent posted in a while, mainly because nobody reads this. Its been a relatively surfless few weeks. I did manage to get some good waves just outside the strait of juan de fuca over thanksgiving but just missed the "epic" conditions by a day. Not nice. Besides that, i got in few other in between storm sessions in some dirt brown aqua. Hoping I can get lucky at one of a few mysto spots this weekend with the 20 something foot swell.

Peakage

I haven't surfed in a few weeks. But it makes it so much worse when you know its going off. You see check the cams and reports and everything looks perfect and all you can do is imagine yourself on that wave. Pretty fuckin lame eh?

Beachy

I had planned to get up real early and go surfing saturday morning, but I had a late night jam session with the boys Friday night and ended up having a few extra beers. I had no choice but to sleep in. I dont enjoy surfing with a hangover, nor when I'm tired. This almost always ends up being the "should been here earlier" scenario. I woke up around 930 am and checked a webcam and was spectacularly surprised that it was still glassy. Loaded up and went surfing. No need for crowds, it was small enough to surf ANYWHERE. And to have a day like saturday this late in the year one must take advantage, So I did. Not "epic" but great conditions for sure.

Diffraction

So the forecast is calling for 20 some odd ft this weekend which equates to chaos at any beach even remotely facing the swell. Now thanks to an amazing property of waves known as diffraction, surfers can enjoy waves of lesser energy at certain locations. There are a few spots work very rarely, but when they do, it equates to winning the lotto. I've scored a few of these locations but the stars really need to align to get it right. Get a map, study it and go explore. You might amazed at what you find, but you're more than likely to get skunked!

Finally -- Twas good

I actually made it out in the water this weekend and got some decent waves. I managed to surf the 9'8'' and the 6'8''. Things were good all day Saturday, and still clean this morning but quickly turned into garbage around 10 am. The future isn't looking too promising though because theres another system heading our way, which means big, gnarly, windy and rainy conditions. This weekend was the calm before (and after) the storm--a good lull. A little stoke my way.

Finally

Its been weeks since i've been out in the water. This weekend looks excellent so i'm not going to miss it. The forecast calls for 5 ft 11 seconds with minimal wind. I'm sure ill be able to find various sized peaks suitable for both my noserider and 6-something single fin. Hope it all pans out because im goin nuts here

The Rouse

It's that time of the year again. 10-15 NW swells accompanied by wind and rain. It is really the opposite of a lull, but to me it is a lull indeed. It has been over two weeks since i've seen the ocean. I check webcams and surf reports very frequently in order to satisfy my oceanic urges. It's really all I can do at this point. I'm not a big wave charger by any means. I've been in over my head quite a few times, literally and figuratively. So I opt for protection at this time of the year. There are quite a few of those--not so secret--secret spots. But in the mean time, I've got some reading to do. Just received my first issue of The Surfer's Journal. www.surfersjournal.com

Bye Bye Sunshine

Its that time of the year. Cold and crispy in the morning, school buses, more traffic and almost to the point where i have to warm my car up in the morning. The waves are also bigger. Strong NW systems are bashing the NW coastline which can be good or bad depending on how you look at it. I prefer smaller and cleaner waves from waist to head high. You know the feel, sun shining off the nicely shaped peelers. A slight offshore breeze keeping you cool. Spending a considerable amount of time on the nose, watching the water skim beneath your feet while you do it. Those were the days. Well, I shouldn't be so pessimistic. Fall has its bonuses, too. Bigger waves means less people in the line up and more waves. Shitty weather in general will do that. And there will still be those small days you just have to wait around and get to the right spot. For the most part I'll be busting out the 9'0 high performance longboard so stay the fuck out of my way (I'm only kidding. I'm always down for a party wave as long as you know where the hell you're going).

Burrrr..I like it.

I managed to get in the water last night and damn was it cold, but there were only a few surfers so it was worth it. I'm willing to part with warmth if it means empty waves. A few weeks back surfers up and down the Oregon coast were trunking it in waist high waves. It felt like California, and looked like it too. It seems that the sport (if you call it that) has been growing exponentially around here, perhaps it's from various media coverage or good waves. I dont know anyone who enjoys surfing crowds, and in comparison to California, we have serene empty breaks. I recently took a surf trip southward and was fairly disgusted with the surf scene there. I mean, it wasn't too bad, but so different from Oregon and Washington that it helped me appreciate what we have here in the NW--empty breaks. And understandably, many want to keep it that way. (I stole the above photo, like many others. It's what I do. Get over it.)

A good day

I didnt check the forecast before i headed out last weekend. I basically expected shit surf so that I wasn't let down. Anyway, it was good. Real good. Well, not really good but pretty good. I was alone first of all. Its amazing surfing alone because there is such a multitude of waves and the greed just overtakes you, especially since the conditions were so great. Fast and glassy waist to shoulder high waves. One of those special days I wont forget.

Windswell

The surf was certainly smaller than I like. Friday evening yielded the greatest results with minimal winds, but Saturday was smaller and windier. Never before have I seen so many beginners out on shortboards. One guy even had just purchased a brand new gun! Good thing, because the swell was pumping! Oh well I should just lighten up, right? Besides, we were all at that stage once. I remember the first time I went surfing and asked the shop owner to rent me a shortboard, but he was honest enough to tell me that I really needed a longboard. Not only to suit me, but for the current conditions as well. I'm glad I took his word for it.

Tonight

As of right now the coast looks awesome, but I'll see if it pans out tonight. Sure, it's a small swell but that's the way I like it. More spots to surf, no need for protection. Besides, there is miles of open beach in Oregon like the photo above. Hopefully I can get in the water before the N wind kicks in this evening. It always seems better in the morning, that is, before the wind gets on it. I might just awake tomorrow to some glass if things don't pan out this evening.

One More Kook

Another perspective

from another kook

You might enjoy it

but You might not.

I guess it depends on my mood which reflects my most recent surf session. Last Saturday was

rather ridiculous soo.....